Betsy had three days off, and I had wanted to visit my friend Jim in Portland, so we cooked up a scheme to hang out in Portland, then crash at Jim's before getting up nice and early to drive out to Smith and climb for two solid days. As usual, the plan was grand but the execution fell a bit short. Jim works from 1pm to 10pm, and we got such a late start that we didn't leave Seattle until just after one in the afternoon. Betsy and I lazed around Sellwood until Jim got off work. We got liquored up and headed to the Black Cat Tavern, where Jim schooled us with his shuffleboard skillz. Naturally, our mild hangovers prevented us from rising until just before noon, and after several forays in search of food for camp and car, we made it to Smith around three o'clock Thursday afternoon.

I was giddy about finally getting to the rock, so I popped out of the car and rushed about getting gear together. One of the State Park volunteers chatted with us and pointed out that we should cover up whatever we left in the car. The latest Smith Rock bandit had robbed some folks at the bivy area recently, and the volunteers spotted him in his car (a gray-blue sedan with a brown passenger-side door) that morning. We took the advice to heart and kept packing. Rack -- check. Helmet, harness, shoes -- check. Snacks and water -- check. Rope -- uh... rope?

In our haste to leave Seattle, I had left my rope sitting in its Army poncho right on the pavement of 18th Avenue East. After a little head smacking, cool heads prevailed. Betsy called my roommate Ezra and asked him to go look for the rope (a lost cause, I thought, since it had been there for a day). Then we rolled out of the parking lot bound for Redpoint Climbers Supply. Betsy got herself a very nice new PMI rope and a sexy stretchy top to wear. Finally, we were ready to climb, and it was only 3.30!

Thankfully, getting to Smith ready to climb was the only epic of the trip. That first day, we climbed Easy Reader and Right Slab Crack, then Betsy led Lichen It, cruising up the route after banishing the mental lead-climbing demons. The crowds were minimal and weather was perfect. As the sun descended, I rushed around taking photos and we made it out to the car with headlamps. We rolled into the Skull Hollow/Grasslands camping area and prepared a magnificent feast of turkey sausage, fresh rolls, lentil soup, and incredible grilled veggies. Car camping in the Volvo 4-season tent is a luxurious experience.

The next morning, we ignored the call of sunrise and slept in a bit, then feasted again, this time on oatmeal pancakes. Once at the rock, we raced a large group of high school kids up the trail, beating them to the Dihedrals to get on Cinnamon Slab. We climbed both pitches and enjoyed the view from the top, but it was already noon, our turnaround time, by the time we rapped to the base. I had to be back in Seattle for a rehearsal, so we left Smith behind with our appetite for rock not quite satisfied. Betsy was enthralled with the place, and we'll certainly return again soon. We can even bring my rope, as Ezra found it sitting in the road, right where we left it!