Big plans turned to much smaller ones this weekend. Jason had long been gathering a group of climbers for a trip to Mt. Shuksan, but his hurt ankle wasn't healed by the weekend, so I was scrambling to find a partner. Gary answered my plea on the UW climbers mailing list, and we started planning.

Washington Pass? No, the road's closed because of avy hazard (that was the rumor, anyway). Ingalls Peak? Nope, road's closed a few miles back from the trailhead. Anything with lots of steep snow was pretty much out because this weekend was the first warm one (10000' freezing level) in a while after a bit of snowfall, and I had no desire to practice outrunning avalanches. Somewhat grudgingly, since we knew the Mountaineers would be there, we agreed on climbing the South Face of the Tooth at Snoqualmie Pass.

Up early, to the trailhead by 7am, and off through the nice, firm snow. We made good time and met the last of the Mountaineers at Pineapple Pass just as they were trying to negotiate the moat. We politely passed them and got to the base of the climb, where messiness ensued.

Not wanting to get in the way of the Mounties, I started leading up from a little ledge to the right of the usual route. Soon enough, though, one of the other leaders came grunting and cursing his way up just ahead of me, so I paused on the occasional ledge until we met at the belay. This particular Mountaineers leader (I'll call him Hothead) never ceased cursing the casual pace of his students.

Near the end of the first pitch, I heard Gary call out "Off belay, Ralph?". I was definitely not off belay, but there was a Mountie student named Mary who was belaying Hothead ahead of me. "Mary, off belay" sounds too much like I'm asking my partner to take me off. Once I brought Gary up to the first belay station, I suggested he take a nickname. Thenceforth, I was climbing with Dirk Diggler.

The rest of the climb was easy, as expected, even in boots, but dealing with the crowd was unpleasant. Routefinding was no problem and each belay station had a huge nest of webbing and rap rings. Gary and I coiled up the rope and simulclimbed through a small snow patch after the third of four rock pitches, then I started off across the famous catwalk variation of the last pitch. I haven't been leading for long, but felt comfortable with the terrain and managed to find decent protection for most of the route. On the catwalk, however, I futzed around and placed a small cam at the end of the traverse. In retrospect, it was stupid to place my only piece there, since if Gary fell, he would take a nasty pendulum fall on the traverse. I should have just led it without pro so that the top-rope would have run straight down. There are no placements to be found on the traverse itself.

The Mounties leaders, especially Pretty-boy, made a huge fuss over my gear placement. It would have been no problem for me to accept their criticism, but not after listening to them bitch and whine about their students, and not when their "advice" was so tactlessly, arrogantly delivered. I reined in my embarrassment and the seething desire to place some gear in Pretty-boy's yammering maw.

Finally, the summit. Fouled only by the leaders' shit-talking, our lunch break was relaxing. The views were great for such a relatively low vantage point (5604'): Glacier, Rainier, Stuart, Chimney Rock, and many smaller peaks all stood out in the clear sky.

On the way down, we encounted more Mounties and Washington Alpine Club members ascending. We shared anchors with Hot-head, again, on the rappels down, and waited at each station for someone ascending or descending.

Back at Pineapple Pass, Gary wanted to wait for Hothead and Pretty-boy so he could get Mounties credit for the climb. (Gary's a closet Mountaineer, but I forgive him.) We relaxed on the rock ledge above the pass, taking photos and listening to the snow melt. A few butt slides down from the pass, and we ran down the trail back to the car.

Knowing we'd not be satisfied with four pitches of 5.4, we were going to meet Betsy and John at Exit 38 for a little bit of sport climbing to end the day. We met up a little later than expected, but got in a few routes near the railroad trestle. Betsy led her first sport climb and rapped down for the first time, too. We stumbled down the trail with headlamps, tired and happy. Dinner back in town was at Buca di Beppo, where the beers and the portions are huge.

See Gary's photos here. He's got some nice shots of Rainier and Glacier Peak.